How to knit gusset and flap heel?
In Finland we traditionally knit socks with DPN’s and cuff down. These traditional socks have a gusset and flap heel worked in slip stitch pattern. When I first heard of similar kind of flap and gusset heel worked in toe up socks, I assumed it must be difficult. In contrary, this heel appeared to be easy and quick to make. The heel is shaped with short rows and has a round heel turn.
Here below I introduce my new sock pattern Vanamo and learn you the construction of gusset and flap heel for toe up socks.
Vanamo socks
Flap and gusset heel for toe up socks.
A flap and gusset heel provides a better fit as there is more space in the heel. There are many ways to shape this kind of a heel. My favourite is the heel pattern I used for Vanamo socks.
The heel turn is round. It is shaped with German Short Rows. The heel flap is worked in slip stitch pattern and decreased with SSK and p2tog on both sides. This heel fits perfectly even in a slim fit socks.
How to knit gusset?
Knit the socks toe up. Cast on by using Judy’s Magic Cast On -technique. Work the toe according your pattern. Work the foot until you have reached 2/3 of the total length of the sole of your foot.
Now start increasing for the gusset at the bottom side of your sock. If you work with DPN’s, increase at the beginning of 3. needle and at the end of 4. needle. When you magic loop, increase at the beginning and at the end of II needle. Increase the same places every 2. round until the foot reaches your ankle. Use M1R and M1L stitches to avoid holes.
The gusset is placed at both sides of the sole. The stitches of the instep remain the same.
How to knit heel turn?
The round heel turn is shaped with German Short Rows. See the instructions for short rows and double stitches here.
Heel turn is the small part under the heel. This can be square, triangle or round shaped. Vanamo socks have round shaped heel turns. They are worked with short rows and there are double stitches on both sides. In the knitting pattern of Vanamo there are specific instructions how this is made. You can use this heel pattern for any toe up socks.
How to knit heel flap?
Heel flap is worked with the stitches of the heel turn. The extra stitches of the gusset are now decreased while knitting the flap. The heel flap of Vanamo socks is made stronger by a slip stitch pattern.
Knit the flap like this:
Place stitch markers on both sides of the flap. Work in slip stitch pattern until 1 sts before marker, ssk, turn. Work in slipstitch pattern until 1 sts before marker, p2tog, turn. Keep repeating until all the stitches of the gusset are decreased.
After the heel there are usually the same or almost the same amount of stitches as before the gusset. This can be slightly different though, depending on the pattern of the leg.
Knitting pattern of Vanamo socks
The pattern of Vanamo is now released and for sale on Ravelry. You can also order the pattern from this site. Go to menu, contact and send me an email. Don’t forget to mention your name and the name of the pattern you wish to order. The prices are the same as on Ravelry.
Vanamo socks are knitted from the toe up. The heel has a gusset and heelflap construction, shaped with German Short Rows. The pattern is written for both, Magic Loop and DPN’s.
Vanamo (Linnaea Borealis) is a small Finnish forest flower. The stitch pattern I used for these socks is delicate like this tender flower growing on the forest floor. The stitch pattern looks like lace, tough it is not. It is intertwined cables worked in twisted rib. The pattern includes charts.
The pattern has 2 sizes for the leg circumference. The length of the foot can be adjusted on any length. The leg has slim fit. These socks stay up all day and are smooth under trousers. If you prefer looser fit, choose heavier yarn and size L.
I used fingering weight yarn and needles 3 mm (US 2.5) (UK 11). Choose light colour speckled yarn to emphasize the stitch pattern. I used La Bien Aimée, Merino Super Sock in colour Souvenir. This yarn really makes me think of the fragile Vanamos of my home forest.
Happy knitting and warm feet to you all,
Piia Maria
